[dropcap]K[/dropcap]arl Lagerfeld is collaborating with Shu Uemura for their “Noel 2012″ collection. The Mon Shu girl birth story features an animated Karl Lagerfeld sketching of the adorable Mon Shu girl, the mascot of this project. The 17-piece collection will be available in Shu Uemura’s 400 locations worldwide and online in November.
[dropcap]F[/dropcap]ashion’s Night Out is going all out to promote this year’s event and they’ve tapped some of our favorite stylish celebs to get the job done. On Thursday September 6th, stores all over the world will be open late so you can hit the racks. It’s the fourth year that the event has been running and according to FNO themselves, this year is going to be bigger and better than ever, complete with special limited-edition products, celebrity appearances, and unforgettable performances.
[dropcap]D[/dropcap]o you ever experience a trigger of emotions or memories when you smell a certain scent? That’s the case for actress Jessica Chastain, who was announced today as the new ambassador of luxury cosmetics brand Yves Saint Laurent’s newest women’s fragrance, Manifesto.
Chastain has apparently had a connection with the brand from a young age, as she toldWWD that she had an aunt who would lend her dabs of the Opium fragrance when she was a young girl. It was by channeling her aunt’s mature and womanly aura while wearing her perfume that Chastain learned to use fragrance as a tool. These days, she wears a different scent for each role that she plays, encouraging herself to get into character through the emotions and attitude that the specific scent elicits. She’s also learned to love associating fragrance with art.
The Manifesto campaign, Chastain told WWD, is the first time she’s played herself in front of the camera.
[dropcap]P[/dropcap]PR has teamed up with global fashion e-tailer Yoox Group to launch a joint company, which will manage the online stores of a host of the luxury conglomerate’s labels – including Bottega Veneta,Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent, Sergio Rossi and Balenciaga. The move is expected to propel digital growth within PPR’s stable of brands.
“E-business is a strategic priority for the Group,” said PPR CEO and chairman François-Henri Pinault. “PPR’s mission is to be the engine behind all our brands so that they each fully realise the potential for organic growth that they all enjoy. This joint-venture will allow PPR to generate synergies and shared resources available to our brands through best-in-class e-commerce expertise. And with this strategic partnership with YOOX Group, we invest in key skills essential to grow our business in the future.”
PPR will hold a 51 per cent stake in the newly-created company, while Yoox will own 49 per cent. Each luxury label will have full control over its e-commerce site, while incorporating Yoox’s advanced technology and international logistics and experience in new markets – such as China. Through the new partnership, PPR labels will become available in more than 100 countries worldwide.
“Two industry leaders have joined forces to launch the most complete, innovative and long-term online luxury retailing venture on the web,” said Yoox Group founder and CEO Federico Marchetti. “The online flagship stores resulting from the joint-venture will be tailor-made together with each PPR luxury brand and are perfectly positioned for the immense growth in this sector.”
Inspired by timeless Hollywood glamor, the new Gucci Premiere fragrance is an invitation to embrace one’s own red carpet moment. Directed by Award Winning Director Nicolas Winding, the video features Blake beaming with glamor at all angles. Whether you’re looking at her luscious blonde locks, thebeautiful Gucci dress, or the skyline shot of the city, the entire video is shimmering with perfection.
Harvey Nichols will unveil its first stand-alone retail concept for beauty this fall with the opening of Beauty Bazaar in Liverpool.
The 22,000-square-foot, three-story space will be part of Liverpool One, a shopping center built around the streets of the city center. An announcement is expected today.
Beauty Bazaar, Harvey Nichols will be a higher-end proposition, and will offer beauty, skin-care and fragrance ranges from brands such as Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Estée Lauder, Tom Ford Beauty, Nars, MAC, Bobbi Brown, Jo Malone, Sisley, Laura Mercier and Bliss.
The ground floor will boast treatment- oriented brands, including a Blink Brow Bar, Carita, Espa and the Organic Pharmacy, all of which will be Harvey Nichols’ exclusives in Liverpool. On the first floor, there will be a Champagne and cocktail bar with floor-to-ceiling glass frontage.
The second floor will offer treatments such as unisex waxing by Strip, spray tanning, and specialist services such as Botox, fillers and permanent makeup by Beyond MediSpa.
“We have created a true lifestyle experience where guests can meet friends and appreciate beauty in an aspirational, educational and service driven surrounding,” said Daniela Rinaldi, the store’s group concessions and beauty director who has been spearheading the project.
Inter Parfums Sa stock tumbled 6.1 percent Tuesday, following news that Burberry had exercised its option to buy out the license rights for its fragrance and beauty products —effective dec. 31 — while discussions between the two companies remain ongoing.
The buyout price is 181 million euros, or $222.6 million at current exchange, exclusive of receivables, inventories and other tangible assets.
Burberry’s fragrance business generates approximately 50 percent of inter Parfums’ net sales, and makes about 2 percent of the u.K.fashion brand’s revenues and 5 to 7 percent of its earnings before interest and taxes, according to a research note from citi, which maintained Burberry’s neutral rating.
Burberry and inter Parfums Sa, the French subsidiary of inter Parfums inc., have been in talks since december 2011 about establishing a new operating structure for the Burberry beauty business. Burberry had until July 31 to determine whether it wished to buy out the unexpired portion of the license or continue the existing license, which runs through dec. 31, 2017.
“Discussions longer and more complex than expected have naturally led Burberry to exercise its option to buy out the license agreement before the July 31 deadline to ensure its ability to benefit from all possible alternatives,” stated Philippe Benacin, chairman and chief executive officer of inter Parfums Sa. “On our side, we have largely anticipated the consequences of this partnership being extended or not.”
Other potential partners for the Burberry fragrance license include P&G, L’Oréal, Puig and Shiseido’s Beauté Prestige
international.
French luxury brand Chanel has chosen London’s Covent Garden for a perfume and cosmetics-only store. The ”flagrance and beauty concept” store will open in time for the Olympics in the heart of Covent Garden’s Piazza.
Built over two floors with ”make over stations” and a manicure salon, the shop will initially be a ”pop-up” planning to stay open for six months but if successful it will become a permanent feature.
Located in the Market Building, the 1,437 square foot store is part of Capital & Counties plan to bring in more high-ends brands to the area.
Yves Saint Laurent has launched an eyeshadow palette for their fans, exclusively available on the brand’s Facebook page.
For CarladePréval, marketing and digital director for Yves Saint Laurent beauty, establishing the label on social networks is essential, which is how the idea came about to launch their first “social product” for the brand’s fans.
TheDevoted to fans eye palette was created in collaboration with Facebook, and features the social network’s cult Pantone shade of blue. With 1,650 palettes available until the beginning of September containing four new colors, Devoted to fans will also open the doors to exclusive content on the site, and to preferential offers in stores.
[dropcap]K [/dropcap]risten Stewart is the new face of Balenciaga Paris’, Florabotanica. Nicolas Ghesquière has had his eye on Stewart since her role in “Panic Room”, sharing with WWD in a recent interview, “I remember thinking, ‘Wow, I would love to do something with her one day. She’s so Balenciaga.” Ghesquiere’s initial idea was to create a collection incorporating “nice” and “nasty” flowers, and Stewart’s duality between gorgeous looks and a boyish personality made her a perfect fit for this fragrance. Florbotanica was produced with Olivier Polge and Jean-Christophe Hèrault of International Flavors & Fragrances. The key notes to this scent are vetiver, amber, caladium-leaf accord, a hybrid rose, carnation and mint accord.
The advertisement for Florabotanica is composed of 3-D metal sculptures resembling elements of a floral print and Kristen wearing a piece from the latest Balenciaga collection. As told to WWD, Stewart has never really thought about her sense of fashion or had a style icon. “I think the hottest chick that’s ever walked the earth is Brigitte Bardot, and I couldn’t be more different from her.” Stewart reveals that she “was never the one wearing her mom’s perfume and trying to be sexy”. She went on to describe what really sold her on the fragrance, “there is something natural about it, it’s very alive. I think that as a young person wearing it – considering I’ve never worn a scent – it kind of puts you on this level of, like, ‘Whoa, check me out.’”
[dropcap]T[/dropcap]he popular nail polish company Essie, founded by Essie Weingarten in 1981, has gained a fanatical following over the years. It has become a leader in what may now be a permanent trend, nail polish as an accessory. While pinks and reds have maintained their standing as number 1 in the realm of polish hues, Essie along with almost all other cosmetic companies have invested in new bolder colors and finishes. The company’s most popular colors such as “A-list” and “raisin nuts” are now accompanied by bolder colors such as a shimmery gun-metal titled “armed and ready” and a day-glo purple of “sexy divide”.
While it has been years in the making, Essie, which is now owned by L’Oreal, has now begun their plan of its first flagship store. Located in the Samuel Shiriqui Salon on 35 East 65th Street, the polish bar will be giving Essie enthusiasts everywhere what they want while simultaneously allowing the brand to grow beyond just polish. The store’s décor, designed by Peter Millard is said to replicate “the pleasant sensation of actually stepping inside one of [Essie Weingarten’s] famous rectangular bottles of polish”. This seems to describe Essie’s nail bar almost perfectly; a narrow space decorated in all white aside from the leather seats patrons will be seated in as they get they receive their manicures. The chairs cleverly sport the shades of some of the brand’s most notable colors.
While getting a manicure, one can gaze at the center piece of the flagship store, The Color Wall. An expansive display of Essie’s 300 most popular hues, the show of Essie’s numerous colors will almost certainly make you pick a new favorite. Essie manicures start at $32 while a pedicure starts at $65.
[dropcap]O[/dropcap]ver 400 guests gathered at the Financial Times Luxury Business from May 30June 1, 2012 at the Four Seasons Hotel in Marrakech. There was a massive concentration of luxury executives, business consultants, brand experts, sales analysts. The summit’s theme this year was “The Lifestyle Revolution”. Previous summits were held in Las Vegas, Lausanne, Los Angeles, Monte Carlo, Shanghai, Tokyo and Venice. This eighth edition of the conference was chaired by FT editor Lionel Barber and brought together some of the biggest names in luxury to share their thoughts on the state of the luxury industry and forecasts for the future.
Speeches and discussions focused on the definition of lifestyle in terms of luxury, the effect of emerging markets on the brand extension, and global macroeconomic outlook. Lionel Barber, editor of the Financial Times, said: “The group of high-level speakers at the” FT Business of Luxury Summit “in Marrakech has made the event a huge success, and public reaction has been extremely positive. The role of new markets, electronic commerce and brand extensions, here are the questions that occupy most of the luxury business.
The guests enjoyed the luxurious surroundings of the Four Seasons Hotel during the welcome reception and the conference. The whole was followed by a reception and gala dinner at the newly built, Marrakech Selman.
Aerin Lauder: Chairman & Creative Director Aerin and Style & Image Directors
Manfredi Ricca: Author and Managing Director Interbrand, Italy
Lifestyle goes way beyond a trend; why are we witnessing this ground breaking change in the industry asks Vanessa Friedman
Lifestyle is a euphemism for steering away from luxury – making a compromise as fashion becomes more democratized
Luxury has always been unique & at the centre of power – it is tribal. Lifestyle is a new tribe, but it destabilizes core values
Aerin Lauder says consumers want more from a brand than one dimensional product lines: «lifestyle is a modern way to shop”
“Exclusivity, engagement, emotion, and experience: the 4 E’s that define luxury & fuel relationship with music” says Kevin Kleinmann
Aerin saw huge gap in market for a personality centred around an individual’s lifestyle
“Social media is a key component to the online strategy of a lifestyle luxury brand” says Aerin
Kevin Kleinmann of Universal says that “Logos are outdated; luxury brands must diversify their use of mediums in this digital era”
64% of luxury consumers in Brazil are newcomers. 45 % in India. Surprise new market with growth potential? Canada is a surprising new market with 42% of growth potential.
Brazilians spend 78% of their contribution to luxury sector outside Brazil – mainly in New York, Miami and London.
Case studies in media and merchandising
Martha Stewart: Founder of Martha Stewart Living, Omni media
Ron Johnson: CEO of JC Penney.
“Lifestyle is a limitless and attractive business model” says Martha Stewart
Ron Johnson “We built Apple flagships because we had a big vision; but we also had to educate on how to integrate product into lifestyle”
Ron Johnson: “Market research will always lead you to the same conclusions; you have to think outside the box to flourish”
Media leads and merchandising follows says Martha Stewart
An experience will always be deeper than a transaction; says Ron Johnson “You need to make people feel they belong.”
Ron Johnson: “Retail experience shouldn’t focus on entertaining – should focus on engagement”
The Investment Cost of Lifestyle
Achim Berg: Partner at McKinsey & Company (expert in Apparel, Fashion, and Luxury Group).
“Emerging markets are no longer the BRIC’s” says Vanessa Friedman, we need to look further afield – Africa& Indonesia new hotspots
Obstacles to emerging markets include high duty tariffs, locals buying elsewhere & education of craftsmen, says head of Altagamma
Tamara Mellon says education of the consumer is key; hard to build brand distinction. At jimmy choo she set up pop-up museums
Could the way forward be partnerships between Western luxury brands and local brands to create the right associations?
Non-traditional Luxury and Lifestyle
Luca Cordero Di Montezemelo, chairman of Ferrari
“Behind fantastic product there are fantastic people; your employees are key to success in the luxury industry” says Montezemolo
Ferrari has to be like a good looking woman – you see one and you are astonished! Montezemelo has charmen his audience.
I am not trying to sell you a car; I am selling you a dream – F1 is after all where we pioneer all our technology
“Fashion is not about trends, rather personality” says Montezemelo – we are seeing a shift away from red & yellow cars in favor of bespoke
Passion in Ferrari, innovation with his private equity group, risk with his train dream : Montezemelo has a true luxury visionary
Luca Cordero Di Montezemolo is sending his best young employees to Silicon Valley to go to Stanford/Google/Apple to see what people are up to elsewhere in other businesses.
Di Montezemolo created with his son a private equity fund specialized in investing in medium luxury companies (home + fashion).
He bought Poltrona frau : famous classic home furniture., Cassina modern home furniture and Cappellini Contemporary home furniture and created the Poltrona Frau Group. All these brands give particular attention to creativity, design and quality.
With the Ceo of Tod’s they created a fast train company on Italy: Italo.
25 modern trains painted in red Ferrari.
Luxury services, special attention to tourists: train tickets = Museum ticket, workers on the train speaks more than 2 languages.
Hélène Dubrule: “we keep our name as a single standing word rather than extra descriptive for our lifestyle brands. We are one label”.
Del Vecchio: “We may not be the most famous brand but we have a core club and following who come back again and again”.
Claudio Del Vecchio: “We see online as the department store space of the future”.
“Limited editions are becoming more and more important” says Georg Jensen CEO, Taps into demand for personalization
If you expand too quickly online, you increase risks to brand by putting pressure on supply chains, says Alexander Wang, CEO
Square footage must depend on the size & needs of the market. “There is no right size for a luxury store” says Claudio Del Vecchio.
Sidney Toledano, CEO of Dior for the closing speech.
“Luxury is a consequence of human potential; the result of performance beyond the ordinary, hence it’s resilience”, says Dior CEO
“When hiring executives at Dior I take applicants to the atelier and watch their eyes and reaction. If they aren’t excited then I won’t hire .We have built the Dior Academy where every salesperson goes to learn about our history and sales techniques”
“Without constraints &rules there can be no freedom for creativity”. Words of Christian Dior that Toledano looked to for guidance
“For all customers, if they come once a day or once a year, our approach is the same – each wants and will receive the best”.
[dropcap]B[/dropcap]ergdorf Goodman is continuing its focus on beauty in a niche catalog that shows fragrances, cosmetics and creams from luxury brands such as Prada, Chanel, Valentino and Tom Ford.
The New York-based retailer is pushing its offerings at its first-floor beauty counter in a 32-page mailer. Bergdorf is likely sending the catalog by tradition, but it could also be looking to attract consumers during its month-long beauty initiative with the Melanoma Research Alliance.
Catalog cover
The spring 2012 beauty book shows a selection of products offered by Bergdorf, some of which are exclusive to the retailer. Its thick pages show custom photographs of fragrances, cosmetics, creams, tools, anti-aging serums and other luxury products.
High-end labels such as Prada, Chanel, Valentino, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Balenciaga and Tom Ford that are marketing beauty lines are included in the book.
Balenciaga fragrance next to Estée Lauder makeup
Estée Lauder, Lancôme, Kiehl’s and other beauty brands are also represented throughout the catalog.
Product descriptions appear on the pages starting with brand name and followed by description, size, price and a phone number to seek more information in smaller font.
French footwear designer Christian Louboutin will begin selling beauty products in late 2013, which could leverage the brand across a mainstream category as long as it does not dilute the name.
Louboutin announced last week that it will partner with Batallure Beauty to create and market Christian Louboutin Beauté products. While some experts say this is a good move to broaden the consumer base, others feel that a beauty line could dilute the brand.
[dropcap]T[/dropcap]o celebrate this important anniversary, the Farmacia has been completely restored to its origins: New rooms with beautiful frescos which had been closed to the public for many years, have been re-opened and the museum added new antique ceramic pieces.
The Italian Ministry of postal and telecommunications launched a special edition of a stamp for this important occasion.