Nicola Formichetti’s first collection under creative direction for Diesel

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Photos credit: Davide Maestri.

L+A Insight

Nicola Formichetti, who joined the Italian company a year ago, debuts his first show for Diesel in Venice, at Venetian Arsenal on Thursday night. He merged Fashion, music, video art into a spectacular event. “This is not just a runway show; this is what we want to be in the next 10 years,” said Diesel founder Renzo Rosso. “We want to be the contemporary alternative to the world of luxury — no more frivolous things. We want to deliver a very precise image.” Discover the collection after the jump.

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Louis Vuitton FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Photos credit: Style.com.

Photos credit: Style.com.

There was a tender typewritten note from Nicolas Ghesquière on every seat at his first show for Louis Vuitton this morning. “Today is a new day. A big day…Words cannot express exactly how I am feeling at this moment…Above all, immense joy.” Emotions were high in the crowd, too. Few designers are as beloved, respected, or copied as Ghesquière is, and he’s been off the scene and badly missed since his departure from Balenciaga a year and a half ago. Only Raf Simons’ debut at Dior was as breathlessly anticipated as Ghesquière’s at Vuitton. They’re the jewels in Bernard Arnault’s LVMH crown, and Arnault was in the front row today, seated alongside Princess Charlene of Monaco and other lights from the worlds of film (Catherine Deneuve), art (Cindy Sherman), and fashion. Jean Paul Gaultier, for whom Ghesquière worked early on, turned up, as curious as the rest of us to see what the new LV, after fourteen years of Marc Jacobs at the helm, would look like.

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Léa Peckre for Maison Lejaby FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

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For their first ready-to-wear collection, Maison Lejaby has hired rising talent Léa Peckre , Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography Grand Prize winner in 2011. Inspired by lingerie, Peckre played with the idea of transparency, showing a very feminine lineup. Léa Peckre gave a fine attention to details but the most part of the collection was so transparent that it can be not easily to wear it outside.

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JC de Castelbajac FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

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Jean-Charles de Castelbajac called his last collection “Sport soir”  for “sporty in Paris and evening in New York.” He was inspired by the surrealist work of German artist Meret Oppenheim. This collection also demonstrated a more personal story line using references as the blanket coat made with his mother at the beginning of his carreer reinterpreted in a micro-quilted jacquard and in rainbow dégradé mohair. Click below to see a glimpse of the collection.

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Elie Saab FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Photos credit: Style.com.

Photos credit: Style.com.

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Elie Saab begins the week with a good news, the superstar Angelina Jolie has wore one of his Haute Couture dress during the Oscars Ceremony. Called “Dark Opulence”, Elie Saab’s fall 2014 collection was inspired by the artist Mark Rothko for his Color Field paintings. A monochromatic collection with designer’s ombré effects, using palette of burgundy, bottle green, pale pink and black. Click and discover the collection.

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Sacai FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Photos credit: Giovanni Giannoni / WWD.

Photos credit: Giovanni Giannoni / WWD.

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Chitose Abe has known an unconventional developement during her carreer. After have built a successful brand launched in Japan 25 years ago, she have surged in her business when she began to presented her show in Paris in 2011. Her hybrid design has become a significant fashion show in Paris. Discover her show after the jump.

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Saint Laurent FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Source: Style.com.

Source: Style.com.

For his latest collection, Hedi Slimane chose Californian John Baldessari as the artist to feature in the little black folio that functions as his show invitation. Baldessari, now 82, is one of the grand masters of appropriation, repurposing preexistent or found imagery to create new art. It was an interesting choice on Slimane’s part, maybe even a wry comment of sorts. “Appropriation” is a rather more agreeable word than other epithets that have been applied to his work at Saint Laurent, with its devotion to the source materials of youth culture.

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Neil Barrett FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Photos credit: Style.com.

Photos credit: Style.com.

L+A Insight

Neil Barrett seems to transpose his men’s collection to women with a little variation. The difference between both collections is that he had a muse in mind, one of the model of the moment: Binx Walton. He met her during the Christmas party cohosted with Love Magazine, where he felt in love with her androgyne style. Then, Walton is become the base of his collection presented in Paris. Find out the collection after the jump.

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Haider Ackermann FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Photos credit: Giovanni Giannoni / WWD.

Photos credit: Giovanni Giannoni / WWD.

Haider Ackermann challenges. He challenges himself, he challenges us, he challenges his customers. This time, he sought to “find a kind of gracefulness in the masculinity,” he said after his show. “It’s complicated, because masculine is about force and about strength, and I was trying to find this kind of delicateness and gracefulness. And a certain simplicity as well.”

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Céline FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Photos credit: Style.com.

Photos credit: Style.com.

Only Phoebe Philo could cause an intake of the fashion industry’s breath with the way she placed a white button on a black coat. The first looks on Céline’s catwalk today featured sleek, thirties-styled tailoring, and double-breasted closings gone surreally askew. The thirties were on Philo’s mind when she was first thinking about the collection, especially women like Hannah Höch and Lee Miller, who were pivotal figures in the Dada and surrealist art worlds. In fact, it was a photo of Miller in the bath in Hitler’s Munich apartment after the fall of the Nazis—travel-stained boots parked by the tub, fatigues folded on a chair—which was Philo’s starting point. “These women were doing things which were quite radical at the time, like wearing men’s clothes, but which today seem quite normal,” she said. “I very much wanted women in men’s clothes, but it was a complex idea so we brought it back to a quite feminine silhouette.”

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Givenchy FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Photos credit: Giovanni Giannoni / WWD.

Photos credit: Giovanni Giannoni / WWD.

Womanly. The word means different things to different people. In fashion it’s usually code for clothes for a mature audience in silhouettes that stem from the traditional. Proper wife, mother and lady stuff, but with a tinge of desire. Riccardo Tisci redefined this premise with his incredible fall collection, amplifying the sensuality and subverting the traditional while layering on fantasy, modernity and loads of luxury. There were furs and they were fabulous.

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Nina Ricci FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

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Designer Peter Copping’s starting point is a group of his favorite interior photos. He went on the idea of using decor and transforming it into a whole women’s wear collection. He explores both sides, the literal and figurative aspects of the interior decoration’s meaning to create this collection. Click below to discover the runway.

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Manish Arora FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

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L+A Insight

Manish Arora presented a candy tribe of sweet-toothed nomads and gummy bear gypsies for this fall season. Ice cream prints, sugary landscapes and Peruvian inspired visuals worn by the models during this show. A kind of sporty youthfulness tribute collection with a candy taste.

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Carven FW 2014/15 – Paris Fashion Week

Photos credti: Style.com.

Photos credti: Style.com.

There was a lot of feeling on the runway at Carven yesterday. The show featured a ton of great-looking forties-inspired clothes, but the special thing was that these conjured a state of mind, a certain mix of dislocation and resolve translated into glamour that seemed right for a woman in the midst of war.

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